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Wine Computer Tool Notes

Index

Volume Estimate
False Wine Recipe
Sulphite
Basic Must Adjustments
Basic Juice Adjustments
Advanced Adjustments
Alcohol Measurement

Fruit Wine Composer

Tool : Volume Estimate

Purpose: Predict must volume from weight of grapes.
Inputs Required: Weight of grapes in either kilograms or pounds.
Inputs Optional: Number of days wine fermented on skins before pressing.
Predictions: Total volume of must and or wine expected for grapes of average ripeness and size..
Notes: See main page of site.

Tool: False Wine Recipe

Purpose: Making false wine from discarded grape skins following press.
Inputs Required: Estimate of volume of wine recovered from pressing (the value produced from Volume Estimate tool may be used).
Inputs Optional:
Notes: See main page of site.
Predictions: Recommends conservative amounts of water, sugar, acid, tannin and nutrient to add to produce a second fermentation on the skins. May be used with red or white grape skins.

Tool: Sulfite

Purpose: Recommends conservative amounts of potassium metabisulphite to add to must and at other critical points following fermentation.
Inputs Required: Volume of must (the value produced from Volume Estimate tool may be used).
Inputs Optional: pH (if known), wine type (color), sweet/dry (toggle), malolactic fermentation (toggle), fruit temperature, fruit ripeness, fruit condition,.
Predictions: Granular potassium bisulphite additions at crush, rack off gross lees, racking and bottling. May comment on wine's properties with respect to malolactic fermentation and organic stability when warnings are appropriate.
Tool Guide: Tool contains a discussion of some the pros and cons related to the use of metabisulfite in modern winemaking.

Additional Notes:

Granular potassium metabisulfite (or metabisuphite) makes it possible for the small-volume winemaker to make fresh (unoxidized) wines that will age well with only a small likelihood of spoiling.. Alternately, those making wine for their own consumption may wish to minimize (or even completely avoid) additives. There is no doubt that some people have a strong negative response to sulphites. These substances are common in many types of food and in the past were sometimes added in quite large amounts to wines that needed to survive the high temperatures they experience in shipping. People with specific allergies or certain medical problems (such as asthma) may need to avoid all such foods and most wines. If you suspect that you have such a problem then you need to do more than just avoid adding sulphites to the wines that you make as all wine contain some sulphite (see note immediately below). To be safe, you will also need to test (kits are available) the wines you make before drinking them !

All wines contain sulphites. Even if no sulphites are added during winemaking, wines naturally contain sulphites. This is one of the reasons why commercial wine producers carefully measure the amount of sulphite present during several steps of the winemaking process. They also avoid applying with sulphur sprays just before harvest. Sometimes there is even too much sulphite before anything is added by the winemaker ! Fortunately, you will find that this is not a very common problem. If you want to adopt some form of sulphite treatment, the tool will help you to add minimal amounts. The text provided in the tool details several reasons for adding sulfite (or not)..

Reducing Sulfite: The best way to reduce the use of sulphites is to make wines that do not need very much in order to ferment and age without spoilage. To do this, make red wines with robust amounts of tannin, alcohol and acid. Use only very high quality (no more than just ripe enough) fruit with no rot or mold. Test for pH and keep it low. Avoid exposure to air. Add nutrients to the primary fermentation and make sure the (high quality) yeast gets an early start. Make dry wines. If you do this, adding sulphite at crush time is probably not required and only very small amounts need be added when racking and bottling. The risk of using zero or very low amounts of sulfite is that your wine may oxidize or spoil before you can drink it. Wine was made traditionally for probably thousands of years without added sulphite. This is one of the reasons that in classical times Roman soldiers received a regular vinegar ration. What else could they do with all that wine that turned to vinegar by January?

Sulphite Wash at Crush Time. There is another way to sulfite at crush. Grapes delivered by truck often arrive with quite a bit of grit etc. If you are fermenting fairly small amounts you are probably carefully hand selecting your grapes anyway. This is the method that I prefer, particularly if I want to "cold soak" the grapes for a day or two, before start of fermentation. Make up a strong potassium metabisulphite solution containing about 15 [ml] (3 teaspoons) of granular bisulfite per liter. If you mix this in a gallon jug (either kind) add about 12 to16 teaspoons. When washing the grapes add about two cups (1 cup equals 250 [ml]) of this solution to each pail of water you clean the grapes in. Wear vinyl gloves (NOT latex which will contaminate the must) or the sulphite will cause skin erosion. YOU MUST THEN DRAIN THE GRAPES BEFORE CRUSHING which gets rid of the large amounts of water and most of the sulphite introduced in the washing process. The advantage of this method is that the amount of sulphite that ends up in the wine is fairly small and the entire surface of every grape has been exposed to the sulphite rather than the sulfite being dispersed into a large volume of must after crushing. This way very little sulfite becomes permanently bound to the sugars etc that are found INSIDE the grapes. If you have never cleaned grapes before fermentation, you may be shocked by how quickly dirt accumulates in the wash pail ! Just add a couple cups of sulphite solution each time you change the water.

 

Tool: Basic Must Adjustments

Purpose: Pre-fermentation additions to musts containing skins.
Inputs Required: Specific gravity (SG) and total volume of the must.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity of must, sugar addition, water addition, acid addition (tartaric or blend toggle), malolactic toggle.
Predictions: Rough (pre-additions) wine volume and percent alcohol. Post-additions wine volume, percent alcohol, sweetness, total acidity, sugar deficit (if any) and final SG of wine assuming fermentation to dryness.

Additional Notes:

Musts are produced by crushing fruit or grapes. Here we assume all stem materials have been removed.

Tannin is found in grape skins and in the skins of a few fruits like blueberries.,loganberries and blackberries. Wines made from certain fruits do not have significant amounts of tannin. If the wine being fermented is red, and the fruit is low in tannin, grape tannin should be added, particularly if the wine will be high in alcohol and acidity for wine stability and a balanced taste. Addition of tannin allows minimal amounts of sulphite to be added in order to provide stability. If the wine being made is white or rose, then tannin is not normally added. But in this case, to prevent spoilage and oxidation, the amount of sulphate that is added should be the correct amount for a white wine. The guidelines produced by the sulphite tool may be used. A normal nutrient addition should be made when making fruit wines. For red wines from low-tannin fruits typically one can add 1 teaspoon (5 [ml]) per every 5 liters of must before fermentation. See the fruit wine design tool for more accurate amounts to add to red wines made from different types of fruit (or mixtures). Many fruits contain pectin (especially apples). Fresh pectic enzyme may be added to prevent hazes. Use the amounts recommended in the fruit wine design tool or follow the recommended amounts (see package etc.) for the enzyme you are using.

Increasing the amount of sugar in the must will increase the juice's specific gravity (SG) and the alcoholic strength of the finished wine.

Increasing the amount of water in the must will decrease the SG and alcoholic strength and will also decrease the total acidity of the finished wine.

If total acidity has to be reduced by the addition of water, then some added sugar may be needed to maintain a reasonable amount of alcohol. Remember that at least 10 percent alcohol by volume is required to protect the wine from spoilage organisms. And the higher the alcohol level the more stable the wine will be. Remember also that wine should contain at least 6 grams per liter (measured as tartaric acid equivalent) of total acidity to prevent a dull taste and to protect against organic spoilage. White wines are more subject to spoilage and typically have a few grams more per liter (7 or above). Another type of acidity measurement is know as "pH". This is of even more importance in preventing spoilage, but in the case of pH, low values are better. Another tool (the sulphite tool) provided for calculating reasonable amounts of sulphite. It uses the pH (if available) to determine optimal amounts of this vital addition (potassium metabisulfite) which assists yeast to compete with bacteria and molds, prevents spoilage and reduces oxidation.

Increasing the amount of tartaric acid (or acid blend) with increase the total acidity of the finished wine by the amount shown. It is assumed that the must contains mainly tartaric and malic acid (the usual composition for grapes). For citrus or other types of fruit, it is better to use the fruit wine composition tool in order to find the amount of acid, sugar and water to add. This is because fruit other than grapes typically contain acids that are partly or entirely consumed by yeast in the fermentation. In addition certain other vital components such as yeast nutrients and tannins are not present in most types of fruit. Fruit wines are best made by recipes based on the experience of experts.

Each type of wine yeast has a particular level of alcohol which it can tolerate before it stops fermenting. Some special types of yeast can reach over 20 percent alcohol, particularly if the extra amounts of sugar required to do this are fed slowly into the secondary fermentation and other conditions such as nutrients, temperature and acidity are close to optimal. It is much more usual for yeast to stop fermenting at about 15 percent alcohol.

If sugar remains when the yeast stops fermenting, the wine will be sweet. Most producers of wine yeast make this information available. Ask where you buy your yeast if this information is not available on the package. Many books contain charts or tables with this type of data. See our book reviews for examples. The tool for simple sugar and acidity corrections uses the input (or default) fermentation limit to predict the finished wine's sweetness (in the usual units of grams per liter). Remember that each 1 gram per liter means 0.1 percent (by weight) of residual sugar. See also the tool for measuring percentage alcohol of a finished wine which attempts a more sophisticated prediction of residual sugars.

Example 1: "Wild" grapes with high acidity and low SG We discover some wild (possibly native North American) red grape vines while camping and gather some to conduct a wine making experiment. On crushing, we discover that the grapes produce a must with a specific gravity of 1.052 and a total acidity of 12.0 grams per liter. The must volume is 37.5 liters. We plug these values into the correction tool and experiment. Because of the high acidity, we turn on the malolactic fermentation (check box) as this will help reduce acidity. We add water to reduce the acidity and sugar to increase the alcohol using the sliders. We find that if we have add about 14 liters of water and 8.2 kilograms of sugar the predicted acidity becomes about 6.5 and the potential alcohol about 12.6 percent. Uncheck the malolactic box to estimate the final acidity if malolactic fermentation does not occur. In order for malolactic fermentation to occur, the pH must be suitable, the aging temperature moderate to warm and the sulphite levels low. The sulphite tool makes predictions regarding the possibility of malolactic fermentation based on amounts of sulphite added provided that a pH reading is available. Since the grapes are red,there is probably plenty of tannin available (even with the added water) but we will add yeast nutrient in the amounts recommended on the nutrient package (or instructions). It would probably also be a good idea to add perhaps a half liter of grape concentrate. As a suggestion, add the concentrate first and then take new SG and acidity measurements. Then use the new measurements in the corrections tool. Remember, a measurement is always superior to a calculated prediction ! The advanced corrections tools permit predictions including concentrate additions.

Example 2: "Hot" California grapes with low acidity and high potential alcohol We obtain 6 "lugs" (about 98 kilograms) of very ripe red California grapes. We carefully discard any unsuitable grapes. After crushing (stems removed) we get about 67 liters of must. The SG is measured at 1.109 and the total acidity at 4.8 grams per liter. These numbers are entered into the corrections tool which predicts 15.3 percent alcohol. The yeast that we prefer could be inhibited by this high potential alcohol resulting in a stuck fermentation. Our taste preference is also for less alcohol and a more balanced wine. We will prevent malolactic fermentation with suitable sulphite additions (see the sulphite tool) so we leave the malolactic box unchecked, By experimenting with the sliders, we discover that by adding 14 liters of water and about 160 grams of tartaric acid we should get a wine with about 12.5 percent alcohol and 6.5 grams per liter total acidity. We add tartaric acid rather than acid blend as insurance against low acidity caused by an unwanted malolactic fermentation. At the alcohol level predicted, any precipitation of potassium bitartrate will not reduce the acidity below critical levels (in terms of total acidity). The tool calculates final acidity including an estimate of bitartrate precipitation. We add yeast nutrient according to the nutrient's instructions and sulphite the must at crush and when racked from gross lees etc. to prevent malolactic fermentation (see sulphite tool).

Simplified sugar adjustments (Chaptalization) to balance alcohol levels. This requires a measurement fo specific gravity (SG) using an inexpensive hydrometer. Wines with low alcohol are more unstable than properly balanced ones.

Simplified total acidity. Inexpensive acidity test kits are available. Their use is economical for even the lowest volumes of wine production. Low acidity is the most common cause of dull tasting wines and very often leads to rapid organic spoilage. If you are only willing to do one test (and adjustment), make this the one !

Tool: Basic Juice Adjustments

Purpose: Pre-fermentation additions to musts NOT containing skins.
Inputs Required: Specific gravity (SG) and total volume of the juice.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity of juice, sugar addition, water addition, acid addition (tartaric or blend toggle), malolactic toggle.
Predictions: Rough (pre-additions) wine volume and percent alcohol. Post-additions wine volume, percent alcohol, sweetness, total acidity, sugar deficit (if any) and final SG of wine assuming fermentation to dryness.

Additional Notes:

Juices are produced by crushing and pressing fruit or grapes. The pressing process separates the skins from the juice. Juices normally contains considerable amounts of pulp but no seed, skins, stems etc. Juices packaged as beverages should never be used for making wine. They normally contain additives that inhibit fermentation and seldom have enough sugar. Juices for wine production need to be almost 25 percent sugar by weight (which is too sweet for most people to drink) and are more like syrups than a beverage. If the material you are fermenting contains skins it is not a juice, it is a must. In that case, use one of the other tools suitable for fruit and grape musts.

Tannin is found in grape skins and in the skins of a few fruits like blueberries.,loganberries and blackberries. Since juices are separated from the grape or fruit skins by the pressing process, wines made from juices typically do not have significant amounts of tannin. If the wine being fermented is red, grape tannin should be added, particularly if the wine will be high in alcohol and acidity for wine stability and a balanced taste. Addition of tannin allows minimal amounts of sulphite to be added in order to provide stability. If the wine being made is white or rose, then tannin is not normally added. But in this case, to prevent spoilage and oxidation, the amount of sulphite that is added should be the correct amount for a white wine. The guidelines produced by the sulphite tool may be used. A normal nutrient addition should be made when making juice wines. For red wines from low-tannin juices typically one can add 1 teaspoon (5 [ml]) per every 5 liters of juice before fermentation. See the fruit wine design tool for more accurate amounts to add to red wines made from different types of fruit (or mixtures). Many fruits contain pectin (especially apples). Fresh pectic enzyme may be added to prevent hazes. Use the amounts recommended in the fruit wine design tool or follow the recommended amounts (see package etc.) for the enzyme you are using.

Increasing the amount of sugar in the juice will increase the juice's specific gravity (SG) and the alcoholic strength of the finished wine.

Increasing the amount of water in the juice will decrease the SG and alcoholic strength and will also decrease the total acidity of the finished wine.

If total acidity has to be reduced by the addition of water, then some added sugar may be needed to maintain a reasonable amount of alcohol. Remember that at least 10 percent alcohol by volume is required to protect the wine from spoilage organisms. And the higher the alcohol level the more stable the wine will be. Remember also that wine should contain at least 6 grams per liter (measured as tartaric acid equivalent) of total acidity to prevent a dull taste and to protect against organic spoilage. White wines are more subject to spoilage and typically have a few grams more per liter (7 or above). Another type of acidity measurement is know as "pH". This is of even more importance in preventing spoilage, but in the case of pH, low values are better. Another tool (the sulphite tool) provided for calculating reasonable amounts of sulphite. It uses the pH (if available) to determine optimal amounts of this vital addition (potassium metabisulfite) which assists yeast to compete with bacteria and molds, prevents spoilage and reduces oxidation.

Increasing the amount of tartaric acid (or acid blend) with increase the total acidity of the finished wine by the amount shown. It is assumed that the juice contains mainly tartaric and malic acid (the usual composition for grapes). For citrus or other types of fruit, it is better to use the fruit wine composition tool in order to find the amount of acid, sugar and water to add. This is because fruit other than grapes typically contain acids that are partly or entirely consumed by yeast in the fermentation. In addition, certain other vital components such as yeast nutrients and tannins are not present in most types of fruit. Fruit wines are best made by recipes based on the experience of experts encapsulated in the fruit wine design tool.

Each type of wine yeast has a particular level of alcohol which it can tolerate before it stops fermenting. Some special types of yeast can reach over 20 percent alcohol, particularly if the extra amounts of sugar required to do this are fed slowly into the secondary fermentation and other conditions such as nutrients, temperature and acidity are close to optimal. It is much more usual for yeast to stop fermenting at about 15 percent alcohol.

If sugar remains when the yeast stops fermenting, the wine will be sweet. Most producers of wine yeast make this information available. Ask where you buy your yeast if this information is not available on the package. Many books contain charts or tables with this type of data. See our book reviews for examples. The tool for simple sugar and acidity corrections uses the input (or default) fermentation limit to predict the finished wine's sweetness (in the usual units of grams per liter). Remember that each 1 gram per liter means 0.1 percent (by weight) of residual sugar. See also the tool for measuring percentage alcohol of a finished wine which attempts a more sophisticated prediction of residual sugars. The advanced corrections tools have an entry so that the user can specify the fermentation limit (percentage alcohol) at which it is anticipated the yeast will stop fermenting. If you use a proper wine yeast, the fermentation should normally proceed beyond the normal 12 or 13 percent alcohol most people prefer in a wine provided that the acidity is not too high and nutrients are available. Yeast also may quit working at higher alcohol levels if the temperature is too low. Yeast like "average" conditions and and you will reduce the chances of stuck fermentations if you let them ferment near room temperature and with moderate levels of acidity and make sure you start with enough nutrients to support a robust yeast population. Never add less than the amount of yeast recommended on the package and it does not hurt to add a bit more.

Tool: Advanced must and juice adjustments.

Purpose: More complete set of pre-fermentation additions to musts and juices with more complete specification of must properties and corrections.
Inputs Required:
Inputs Optional: Measurement temperature, ?

Additional Notes:

Temperature Adjustments. Hydrometers are calibrated to work at specific temperatures, typically roughly 15 C. Using uncorrected measurements taken at other temperatures may lead to errors and the tool will apply these corrections if the measurement temperature is entered. Brix measurements should always be made at the instrument,s calibration temperature (20C) but we recommend the use of temperature compensated instruments which are now available at reasonable prices. Once you use this instrument a few times you will not understand how you ever functioned without it !

Stems Stems (at least some) are often left in the must during the primary fermentation. They increase the must volume but not the final amount of wine produced. More important, stems introduce a great deal of tannin and other bitter substances. Powerful red wines with very high acidity and lots of alcohol are often fermented with a considerable percentage of stems left in the must. Typically, the wine produced may need to be aged five or ten years before it has "mellowed" enough to drink. If such a wine is not balanced by very high extraction of color and flavours it may never mellow ! So this type of winemaking is best left to those with the very best supply of noble grapes and the large amounts of capital required to cellar wines for several years. Some grapes may produce very high levels of tannin even with all stems removed. Certain types of grapes like tannat (used to make Madiran) have been deliberately developed with this property. Since a lot of tannin comes from the seeds, the amount of tannin in the wine may be reduced by removing the seed after two or three days of primary fermentation. Generally, the longer the seeds are exposed to the fermentation the more bitter the extraction products. This is why it is a good idea to limit the use of seed in a second fermentation (see making false wine). Unless you are able to measure tannin each day, only experience with specific grapes can guide you in the refined use of stems and seeds. Top winemakers often have a superior sense of taste and use it to detect subtle changes during fermentation. Human taste buds are sensitive to bitterness. Try tasting your wine during fermentation. If you experiment and keep accurate notes you too may become an exceptional winemaker. If you are a member of a winemaking group, you may be able to learn several times faster by tasting several fermenting musts and the resulting wines each year.

Fermentation Limits and Yeasts. Cultured wine yeast are able to survive much higher levels of alcohol than can most "wild" yeast found on grapes. They are also able to better resist the effects of sulphites making them much more compatible with modern winemaking methods. This means that cultured wine yeasts are the best insurance against "stuck fermentations". If the yeast you use cannot convert all the fermentable sugar in the must (because the alcohol level reached inhibits them), the resulting wine will be sweet rather than dry. In some wines, this is what is wanted. But in most cases this is a serious flaw and can lead to organic spoilage. Some wine yeasts can ferment to over 20 percent alcohol ! Particularly if the extra amount of sugar needed to get this much alcohol is added over several days during the secondary fermentation. If the yeast that you are using has a maximum alcohol tolerance much different from the tool's default, enter the correct value in the text area provided. Then the tool will indicate conditions when you are likely to get a sweet wine by predicting a non-zero sweetness.

Port Style Wines Certain wines are only partly fermented. The fermentation is stopped by adding a strong distilled spirit (brandy etc.). In this case, the fermentation limit is low and is determined by the winemaker not the yeast. After the fermentation is terminated, the winemaking differs from that for a typical wine and you should consult a book for details (see our book reviews). Although this method typically leaves a lot of sugar unfermented, the wine is stabilised by its high alcohol level. If you want to try making this type of wine, you need to know how much spirit to add (and when) which is what the tool does (among other things) You will also want to predict certain final properties such as sweetness and the amount of wine that will be produced. The tool can make these predictions because it permits the specification of a maximum fermentation limit and the addition of spirits. It also predicts the must SG at the point that you will need to add the spirits (that is, at the fermentation limit chosen). Note that other major issues such as acidity also need to be handled differently. Since the tool permits the addition of concentrates and water before fermentation, it is recommended that total acidity level be tested again after all additions and before the primary fermentation. Since distillation of spirits removes most of the important acids found in wines, the winemaker will probably want ot start with a must of higher than normal acidity. Then when the spirits "dilute" the wine the final acidity reached will be lower. High alcohol levels mean that the wine's organic stability is less dependant on acidity so that in this case acidity mainly an issue of taste. Generally, higher amounts of residual sugar, require more acidity for a balanced taste. Yeasts experience stress under high acidity but since the fermentation alcohol level will never be very high, many types of yeast will perform well enough to make this type of wine. In order to make good port style wine, the winemaker needs to have a sound understanding of the fermentation fundamentals and clear goals (acidity, sweetness etc.) for the final product. Why not find out the sweetness, alcohol level and acidity or your favourite style of port and see if you can make a similar product.

Tartaric Acid and Acid Blend A wine's acidity is adjusted by adding either tartaric acid or a blend of tartaric, malic and citric acids. Since malic and citric acid may be entirely consumed during fermentation (particularly in malolactic fermentation) the choice of which to add can only be made in connection with decisions about malolactic fermentation. Citric acid is cheap but since it is consumed during fermentation the reasons for adding it before fermentation are subtle (at best). Fortunately, although some acids are consumed during fermentation, other very important ones such as succinic acid are created. This acid is responsible for giving wine its main characteristic "acidity taste". In addition, acetic acid (vinegar) is produced. Vinegar is often referred to somewhat politely as "volatile acidity". A tiny bit of volatile acidity may add to a wine's complexity but amounts detectable by taste are a major flaw. This is avoided by using modern sanitation and fermentation methods. Fortunately for winemakers, the total acidity of a wine ofen does not decline very much even when certain acids are lost. This is partly because the total volume of wine produced is quite a bit less than the volume we start with (remember part of the sugar escapes as carbon dioxide, there is some evaporation etc.) so that on a grams per liter basis the final acidity tends to take care of itself. Looking at acidity from a spoilage point of view, it is the wine's pH that is critical. Because wine is "buffered solution" of salts and acids (remember any of that chemistry 101 you took?) , if we start with a suitable pH we usually also end up with a suitable low pH. One thing that wine makers sometimes worry about is the precipitation of added tartaric acid in the form of potassium bitartrate. This happens because tartaric acid is less soluble in water containing alcohol (wines). This is the reason for the old rule of thumb which specifies that not more than two grams per liter of tartaric acid should be added to a must. The precipitation of bitartrate tends to happen slowly and is encouraged by lower temperatures. This is another good reason to age wine all winter in a cool place. The tool assumes an average amounts of bitartrate will be precipitated in producing an estimate of the wine's final total acidity. Remember, measurement of properties (like acidity) produce facts while calculated predictions are an educated form of speculation ! If you really need to know, measure the acidity after fermentation. Minor acidity corrections are sometimes conducted after fermentation. Any citric acid added at this stage may stick around and even add complexity to the taste (in small amounts).

Concentrate Strength The tool permits the addition of concentrate which is generally superior to a sugar addition but is also more expensive. If you do not know the strength of the concentrate the tool suggests a way to measure it. Alternately, you can always let the tool use its default concentrate strength value and do a quick specific gravity check before fermentation. Then, if necessary, do a fine adjustment treating the new mixture as if it were just another must.

Spirits and Units Spirits strength (brandy, vodka etc.) is most reliably stated in percent alcohol by volume. If the spirits you plan to use have a strength given only in "proof" units then you will need to determine which type of proof is being used. There are at least four types of proof in use (and probably several other variants). The tool permits the strength to be input in two different types of proof. Use the percent alcohol figure whenever possible. Spirits hydrometers can be purchased fairly cheaply and these will allow you to measure proof directly and (hopefully) indicate which system they use. There are several instruments available with more than one type of scale and this may require somewhat careful use.

Tool: Alcohol Measurement

Purpose: Practical and reliable method to measure percent alcohol by volume in a finished wine.
Inputs Required: Two specific gravity measurements using a fine scale low range hydrometer.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity, temperature, glycerine addition (addition toggle and amount added text area)
Predictions: Percent alcohol by weight and estimates for total sweetness, amount of fermentable sugars remaining in wine, total amount of glycerine in wine (based on properties of a typical wine).
Tool Guide: Tool contains a detailed set of illustrated instructions for the steps required to make a measurement of percentage alcohol.

Additional Notes:

Alcoholic strength may be measured using several methods. This tool uses the most economical method we have been able to find (that produces a reliable measurement). It requires only the purchase of a low range hydrometer readable to one extra decimal of precision. These hydrometers are fairly inexpensive and using them anyone can reliably verify the amount of alcohol in a wine. If the user knows the total acidity of the wine and the temperature at which the SG measurements were taken, the tool will also make an estimate of both the fermentable and unfermentable residual sugars in the wine. Rough estimates may also be produced by assuming room temperature and the tool's default value for total acidity. To proceed, follow the four step method illustrated and described in the graphics and text areas of the tool.

Tool: Fruit Wine Composer

Purpose: Compose fruit wines following traditional guidlines.
Inputs Required: Weights of each type of fruit to add to composition.
Inputs Optional: Prefered units, substitution preferences regarding some added components.
Predictions: Volume of must and wine when reported amounts of added components such as water and acid are added to the fruit components.

Additional Notes:

About Recipes.

Before the age of science, all wines were made following traditional methods, what we would now call recipes. In recent times, science and technology have been introduced into winemaking. Now, we often forget that each type of grape wine (think of the differences between Port, Champagne, Sherry, Ice Wine and Madeira) conforms to a highly traditional "recipe". Only relatively minor variations within each type of wine occur. In some countries, big "variations" can send you to jail. One area of winemaking that has never moved far from its recipe roots is what is sometimes called "country wine" but which we will call "fruit wines". Just as you can not make a true "Port style" wine without following the Port making methods, you can not make an Elderberry style wine without following certain guidelines. This tool makes it possible to "compose" fruit wines from one type of fruit but also to combine fruits in new or traditional ways. In addition, it tells you what to do with the type and amount of fruit you actually have on hand. Use only high quality fruit. If it's not good enough to eat, its not good enough to be made into wine. Rotten fruit makes good compost (and wine that may taste like compost).


Making Dry Fruit Wines

The composition tool should be used in a two (or more) step procedure.

Step 1: Enter the weight of the fruit(s) that you intend to use. The tool presents you with the "traditional" amount of water acid and so on to add. Following this traditional proportions will produce a dry (usually white or rose) wine if a cultured wine yeast with good alcohol tolerance is used. A bit of pectic enzyme will help prevent hazes. Some tannin will speed up clarification and if any remains in the wine it will probably enhance the taste and increase stability.

Step 2: Adjustments. This step is optional but highly recommended. Because the amounts of sugar and acid in fruit are extremely variable, the SG and total acidity of the must should be measured and adjusted if necessary to SG 1.080 to 1.100 and total acidity of 4.5 to 6.5 gram/Liter equivalent tartaric. Use the higher values if you will be topping off carboys after racking with water. The lower values are only valid if you are topping off with wine. Taste first. If the wine is robust, small amounts of (sterile) water can be used to top off. If not, rack to a smaller container.


Making Sweet Fruit Wines

To make a sweet wine, use one of the sugar adjustment tools along with the must volume to find the amount of sugar to add to get any sweetness desired. Sweet wines MUST have enough sulfite, alcohol, acidity and tannin to prevent malolactic fermentation, restart of sugar fermentation and organic instability. See the sulphite tool for some guidelines. See the alcohol measurement tool which may help you detect residual sugar. Paper indicator strips are also available to help detect residual sugar.


Your Preferred Style

Many fruit wines such as those from pears and citrus fruits are traditionally light (even thin) compared to wines made from grapes. They are therefore usually enjoyed cooled on a hot afternoon or evening or with light summer food. The fruit wine composer makes it very easy to modify the traditional fruit wine style. Simply add components that are consistent with your preferred style !

Examples:

(1) More Color. Switch to red grape concentrate where white concentrate or raisins are usually used. Or use one of the sugar/acid adjustment tools after you measure the fruit must's SG and acidity to add concentrate. Elderberries are a strong colouring agent and also add taste complexity. Certain grapes having red pulp can also be added.

(2) More body is obtained by adding some banana or raisins. Using raisins will also give a more vinous (even Port style) flavour. The composer also lets you substitute concentrate for raisins (and vice-versa).

(3) When significant increases are made in body or alcohol level, remember to keep the wine in balance by also boosting its acidity. Dark red wines should also have a bit more tannin as wine drinkers automatically connect a wine's appearance to a taste expectation. The added stability and ease of clarification is a bonus.

(4) Aging potential. This means more body, alcohol, acidity and tannin. If this is your aim, make a red grape wine instead of a fruit wine. In season, grapes may be the cheapest fruit available to you. Out of season, consider using frozen grape must of refrigerated grape juice etc. Making a robust red wine from grapes is actually easier than making a delicate white from easily oxidized fruit. For small amounts of wine, little of the traditional equipment used with grapes (crushers and presses) is required; just treat the grapes like any other fruit ! Since fruit and grape wines can easily be made for less than two dollars ($USA) per bottle, wine making equipment is one of the best investments you can make.



Some Procedures:


Breaking down fruits for better extraction (two methods). One way is to first prepare the fruit (by de-stoning and chopping etc.) and then to add the water after it has been heated. Adding boiling water would "cook" the fruit which is definately undesirable but boiling it first will help remove the chlorine found in tap water. Adding hot (but not boiling) water will also partly sterilize the fruit. This gives the cultured wine yeast that you will add (after cooling to room temperature) a desirable advantage. It also reduces the need for added (pre fermentation) sulfite provided that excess contact with air is avoided. Any sugar to be added should be dissolved while the water-fruit mixture is hot. Only after cooling to room temperature are the other components (yeast, tannin, acid etc.) added.

Another way is to break down the fruits' cellular structure by freezing and then thawing to room temperature. This greatly increases the speed of extraction during fermentation. Fruits with stones are probably easier to de-stone before freezing. Both methods increase the accuracy of the sugar (SG) and total acidity measurements and adjustments that should be made after the all the components are combined and thoroughly mixed.


Fermentation: Treat fruit wines the same way you would treat a light rose or white wine. Strain the fluid from the solids after about three days. Strong components like dried Elderberries can be placed in a small nylon bag and removed when your taste buds tells you to do so. Use the sulphite tool to find

the MINIMUM amounts of potassium metabisulphite to add. Serious injury can result from fermentations restarting in sweet wines as bottles can and do

explode. So study stabilization methods and get advice from someone (local wine making store) who has tried what you are contemplating. Some books discuss sweetening wines after they are stabilized by sterile filtering etc. This tool is just a doorway to creative winemaking. Enjoy.


Aging. Although fruit wines are fermented much like white wines made from grapes, they often need a bit more aging typically six to twelve months. As with any wine, only tasting can reveal when a wine is ready to drink and when it is starting to show its age.


Some Specific Fruits

Bananas. Bananas add body to fruit wines. Some recipes recommend that they be peeled but others do not. Peeled or unpeeled they should always be chopped. The most "delicate" way to use them is to peel and chop and then to simmer in a small amount of water for a half an hour. Then strain out the solids and add only the broth to the must.


Elderberries

These are typically added as relatively minor components to fruit wines in order to add colour (elderberries can be used as a dye) and to produce a more complex tasting wine. They are often removed from the wine early when small amounts are added by keeping them in a cloth bag submerged in the must until they have added enough colour or taste.


Rhubarb. Rhubarb is easy to grow in large amounts and is available very early in the year which is the only time that it should be used for wine. At times, rhubarb may be difficult to ferment. This means that if a high alcohol wine is attempted, it is more likely that a sweet wine will result. Always add yeast nutrient and keep the must warm (above room temperature) while fermenting. Use a tough, high alcohol tolerance, yeast like K1V-1116 (strain 1016-02) or EC-1118 (strain 1018-02). To promote extraction, chop and cover with the required added sugar for 24 hours. Osmotic pressure extracts a lot of juice during this time.


Raisins. Raisins add body, sugar and a "Port style" vinous character. They should be chopped before use. A good substitute for raisins is grape concentrate. Some recipes indicate that 10 fluid ounces (0.28 L) of concentrate will have the same effect as one half to one pound (0.23 to 0.45 kg) of raisins. Red grape concentrate will add colour and stability to the wine. Grape concentrates also add vinous quality (but not Port style character). The fruit composer tool permits the user to handle raisin and concentrate additions in three ways. The "Both" option does not modify

the "traditional" additions of either raisins or grape concentrate. Two other options specify either all raisin additions be converted to concentrate or vice versa. The tool adjusts then must and wine volumes to reflect any substitutions made. When making substitutions be sure to measure SG and total acidity and adjust when required using one of the must adjustment tools if you wish to more accurately control the final alcohol and acidity levels.


Stone Fruit. Some fruit stones are either toxic or contain unpleasant bitter substances. This means that all pits and stones from this class of fruit should be removed before chopping or crushing.


Apples and Pears. These are very similar fruits from a wine making point of view and make a good wine when mixed together. Cider and perry may be made by pulping and pressing the fruit in which case we are making a "juice wine". Use the must correction tool designed for juices rather than the "traditional recipe approach" used in the fruit composer tool to make this type of wine. This type of fruit (and some others) browns (oxidizes) rapidly when exposed to air. This can be mostly prevented by immediately putting the fruit in the water as it is chopped. Adding the required acid to the water before starting chopping works even better.


Fermentation Cap and Punchdown. Fruit wine musts contains solids such as skins and seeds. These float to the top forming a "cap" during fermentation. The cap needs to be kept wet by "punching down" several times a day just as in making grape wines. This will speed extraction of sugar and colour and reduce vinegar formation. If you want more cap or want to add more vinous character, crush some Thompson (seedless) grapes and add then to the must. The fruit composer lets you do this properly by using the "wine or table grape" category of fruit. Thompson Seedless table grapes have a very neutral character. Be careful with other types of grapes such as hybrids and Concord as some of these may add taste components that you do not like. Avoid the "foxy" flavour component that come with many native (or hybrid) grapes unless you are one of those rare individuals that likes this taste.


Rice and Sake. Real sake is made from rice which produces a unique form of wine which is highly developed in Japan. A more traditional "wine taste" and complexity is achieved by adding either raisins or grape concentrate. You may want to experiment with other components using the fruit wine composer.

 

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