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Wine Computer Tool Notes
Index
Volume Estimate
False Wine Recipe
Sulphite
Basic Must Adjustments
Basic Juice Adjustments
Advanced Adjustments
Alcohol Measurement
Fruit Wine
Composer
Tool : Volume
Estimate
Purpose: Predict must volume from
weight of grapes.
Inputs Required: Weight of grapes in either kilograms or pounds.
Inputs Optional: Number of days wine fermented on skins before pressing.
Predictions: Total volume of must and or wine expected for grapes of
average ripeness and size..
Notes: See main page of site.
Tool: False Wine
Recipe
Purpose: Making false wine from
discarded grape skins following press.
Inputs Required: Estimate of volume of wine recovered from pressing (the
value produced from Volume Estimate tool may be used).
Inputs Optional:
Notes: See main page of site.
Predictions: Recommends conservative amounts of water, sugar, acid,
tannin and nutrient to add to produce a second fermentation on the skins. May be used with
red or white grape skins.
Tool: Sulfite
Purpose: Recommends conservative
amounts of potassium metabisulphite to add to must and at other critical points following
fermentation.
Inputs Required: Volume of must (the value produced from Volume Estimate
tool may be used).
Inputs Optional: pH (if known), wine type (color), sweet/dry (toggle),
malolactic fermentation (toggle), fruit temperature, fruit ripeness, fruit condition,.
Predictions: Granular potassium bisulphite additions at crush, rack off
gross lees, racking and bottling. May comment on wine's properties with respect to
malolactic fermentation and organic stability when warnings are appropriate.
Tool Guide: Tool contains a discussion of some the pros and cons related
to the use of metabisulfite in modern winemaking.
Additional Notes:
Granular potassium metabisulfite (or metabisuphite) makes it possible for the
small-volume winemaker to make fresh (unoxidized) wines that will age well with only a
small likelihood of spoiling.. Alternately, those making wine for their own consumption
may wish to minimize (or even completely avoid) additives. There is no doubt that some
people have a strong negative response to sulphites. These substances are common in many
types of food and in the past were sometimes added in quite large amounts to wines that
needed to survive the high temperatures they experience in shipping. People with specific
allergies or certain medical problems (such as asthma) may need to avoid all such foods
and most wines. If you suspect that you have such a problem then you need to do more than
just avoid adding sulphites to the wines that you make as all wine contain some sulphite
(see note immediately below). To be safe, you will also need to test (kits are available)
the wines you make before drinking them !
All wines contain sulphites. Even if no sulphites
are added during winemaking, wines naturally contain sulphites. This is one of the reasons
why commercial wine producers carefully measure the amount of sulphite present during
several steps of the winemaking process. They also avoid applying with sulphur sprays just
before harvest. Sometimes there is even too much sulphite before anything is added by the
winemaker ! Fortunately, you will find that this is not a very common problem. If you want
to adopt some form of sulphite treatment, the tool will help you to add minimal amounts.
The text provided in the tool details several reasons for adding sulfite (or not)..
Reducing Sulfite: The best way to reduce the use of sulphites is to make wines
that do not need very much in order to ferment and age without spoilage. To do this, make
red wines with robust amounts of tannin, alcohol and acid. Use only very high quality (no
more than just ripe enough) fruit with no rot or mold. Test for pH and keep it low. Avoid
exposure to air. Add nutrients to the primary fermentation and make sure the (high
quality) yeast gets an early start. Make dry wines. If you do this, adding sulphite at
crush time is probably not required and only very small amounts need be added when racking
and bottling. The risk of using zero or very low amounts of sulfite is that your wine may
oxidize or spoil before you can drink it. Wine was made traditionally for probably
thousands of years without added sulphite. This is one of the reasons that in classical
times Roman soldiers received a regular vinegar ration. What else could they do with all
that wine that turned to vinegar by January?
Sulphite Wash at Crush
Time. There is another way to sulfite at crush. Grapes delivered by truck often arrive
with quite a bit of grit etc. If you are fermenting fairly small amounts you are probably
carefully hand selecting your grapes anyway. This is the method that I prefer,
particularly if I want to "cold soak" the grapes for a day or two, before start
of fermentation. Make up a strong potassium metabisulphite solution containing about 15
[ml] (3 teaspoons) of granular bisulfite per liter. If you mix this in a gallon jug
(either kind) add about 12 to16 teaspoons. When washing the grapes add about two cups (1
cup equals 250 [ml]) of this solution to each pail of water you clean the grapes in. Wear
vinyl gloves (NOT latex which will contaminate the must) or the sulphite will cause skin
erosion. YOU MUST THEN DRAIN THE GRAPES BEFORE CRUSHING which gets rid of the large
amounts of water and most of the sulphite introduced in the washing process. The advantage
of this method is that the amount of sulphite that ends up in the wine is fairly small and
the entire surface of every grape has been exposed to the sulphite rather than the sulfite
being dispersed into a large volume of must after crushing. This way very little sulfite
becomes permanently bound to the sugars etc that are found INSIDE the grapes. If you have
never cleaned grapes before fermentation, you may be shocked by how quickly dirt
accumulates in the wash pail ! Just add a couple cups of sulphite solution each time you
change the water.
Tool: Basic Must Adjustments
Purpose: Pre-fermentation additions to
musts containing skins.
Inputs Required: Specific gravity (SG) and total volume of the must.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity of must, sugar addition, water addition,
acid addition (tartaric or blend toggle), malolactic toggle.
Predictions: Rough (pre-additions) wine volume and percent alcohol.
Post-additions wine volume, percent alcohol, sweetness, total acidity, sugar deficit (if
any) and final SG of wine assuming fermentation to dryness.
Additional Notes:
Musts are produced by crushing fruit or grapes. Here we
assume all stem materials have been removed.
Tannin is found in grape skins and in the skins of a few
fruits like blueberries.,loganberries and blackberries. Wines made from certain fruits do
not have significant amounts of tannin. If the wine being fermented is red, and the fruit
is low in tannin, grape tannin should be added, particularly if the wine will be high in
alcohol and acidity for wine stability and a balanced taste. Addition of tannin allows
minimal amounts of sulphite to be added in order to provide stability. If the wine being
made is white or rose, then tannin is not normally added. But in this case, to prevent
spoilage and oxidation, the amount of sulphate that is added should be the correct amount
for a white wine. The guidelines produced by the sulphite tool may be used. A normal
nutrient addition should be made when making fruit wines. For red wines from low-tannin
fruits typically one can add 1 teaspoon (5 [ml]) per every 5 liters of must before
fermentation. See the fruit wine design tool for more accurate amounts to add to red wines
made from different types of fruit (or mixtures). Many fruits contain pectin (especially
apples). Fresh pectic enzyme may be added to prevent hazes. Use the amounts recommended in
the fruit wine design tool or follow the recommended amounts (see package etc.) for the
enzyme you are using.
Increasing the amount of sugar in the must will increase the juice's specific gravity (SG)
and the alcoholic strength of the finished wine.
Increasing the amount of water in the must will decrease the SG and alcoholic strength and
will also decrease the total acidity of the finished wine.
If total acidity has to
be reduced by the addition of water, then some added sugar may be needed to maintain a
reasonable amount of alcohol. Remember that at least 10 percent alcohol by volume is
required to protect the wine from spoilage organisms. And the higher the alcohol level the
more stable the wine will be. Remember also that wine should contain at least 6 grams per
liter (measured as tartaric acid equivalent) of total acidity to prevent a dull taste and
to protect against organic spoilage. White wines are more subject to spoilage and
typically have a few grams more per liter (7 or above). Another type of acidity
measurement is know as "pH". This is of even more importance in preventing
spoilage, but in the case of pH, low values are better. Another tool (the sulphite tool)
provided for calculating reasonable amounts of sulphite. It uses the pH (if available) to
determine optimal amounts of this vital addition (potassium metabisulfite) which assists
yeast to compete with bacteria and molds, prevents spoilage and reduces oxidation.
Increasing the amount of
tartaric acid (or acid blend) with increase the total acidity of the finished wine by
the amount shown. It is assumed that the must contains mainly tartaric and malic acid (the
usual composition for grapes). For citrus or other types of fruit, it is better to use the
fruit wine composition tool in order to find the amount of acid, sugar and water to add.
This is because fruit other than grapes typically contain acids that are partly or
entirely consumed by yeast in the fermentation. In addition certain other vital components
such as yeast nutrients and tannins are not present in most types of fruit. Fruit wines
are best made by recipes based on the experience of experts.
Each type of wine yeast has
a particular level of alcohol which it can tolerate before it stops fermenting. Some
special types of yeast can reach over 20 percent alcohol, particularly if the extra
amounts of sugar required to do this are fed slowly into the secondary fermentation and
other conditions such as nutrients, temperature and acidity are close to optimal. It is
much more usual for yeast to stop fermenting at about 15 percent alcohol.
If sugar remains when the
yeast stops fermenting, the wine will be sweet. Most producers of wine yeast make this
information available. Ask where you buy your yeast if this information is not available
on the package. Many books contain charts or tables with this type of data. See our book
reviews for examples. The tool for simple sugar and acidity corrections uses the input (or
default) fermentation limit to predict the finished wine's sweetness (in the usual units
of grams per liter). Remember that each 1 gram per liter means 0.1 percent (by weight) of
residual sugar. See also the tool for measuring percentage alcohol of a finished wine
which attempts a more sophisticated prediction of residual sugars.
Example 1: "Wild" grapes with high acidity
and low SG We discover some wild (possibly native
North American) red grape vines while camping and gather some to conduct a wine making
experiment. On crushing, we discover that the grapes produce a must with a specific
gravity of 1.052 and a total acidity of 12.0 grams per liter. The must volume is 37.5
liters. We plug these values into the correction tool and experiment. Because of the high
acidity, we turn on the malolactic fermentation (check box) as this will help reduce
acidity. We add water to reduce the acidity and sugar to increase the alcohol using the
sliders. We find that if we have add about 14 liters of water and 8.2 kilograms of sugar
the predicted acidity becomes about 6.5 and the potential alcohol about 12.6 percent.
Uncheck the malolactic box to estimate the final acidity if malolactic fermentation does
not occur. In order for malolactic fermentation to occur, the pH must be suitable, the
aging temperature moderate to warm and the sulphite levels low. The sulphite tool makes
predictions regarding the possibility of malolactic fermentation based on amounts of
sulphite added provided that a pH reading is available. Since the grapes are red,there is
probably plenty of tannin available (even with the added water) but we will add yeast
nutrient in the amounts recommended on the nutrient package (or instructions). It would
probably also be a good idea to add perhaps a half liter of grape concentrate. As a
suggestion, add the concentrate first and then take new SG and acidity measurements. Then
use the new measurements in the corrections tool. Remember, a measurement is always
superior to a calculated prediction ! The advanced corrections tools permit predictions
including concentrate additions.
Example 2: "Hot" California grapes with low
acidity and high potential alcohol We obtain 6
"lugs" (about 98 kilograms) of very ripe red California grapes. We carefully
discard any unsuitable grapes. After crushing (stems removed) we get about 67 liters of
must. The SG is measured at 1.109 and the total acidity at 4.8 grams per liter. These
numbers are entered into the corrections tool which predicts 15.3 percent alcohol. The
yeast that we prefer could be inhibited by this high potential alcohol resulting in a
stuck fermentation. Our taste preference is also for less alcohol and a more balanced
wine. We will prevent malolactic fermentation with suitable sulphite additions (see the
sulphite tool) so we leave the malolactic box unchecked, By experimenting with the
sliders, we discover that by adding 14 liters of water and about 160 grams of tartaric
acid we should get a wine with about 12.5 percent alcohol and 6.5 grams per liter total
acidity. We add tartaric acid rather than acid blend as insurance against low acidity
caused by an unwanted malolactic fermentation. At the alcohol level predicted, any
precipitation of potassium bitartrate will not reduce the acidity below critical levels
(in terms of total acidity). The tool calculates final acidity including an estimate of
bitartrate precipitation. We add yeast nutrient according to the nutrient's instructions
and sulphite the must at crush and when racked from gross lees etc. to prevent malolactic
fermentation (see sulphite tool).
Simplified sugar adjustments (Chaptalization) to
balance alcohol levels. This requires a measurement fo specific gravity (SG) using an
inexpensive hydrometer. Wines with low alcohol are more unstable than properly balanced
ones.
Simplified total acidity. Inexpensive acidity
test kits are available. Their use is economical for even the lowest volumes of wine
production. Low acidity is the most common cause of dull tasting wines and very often
leads to rapid organic spoilage. If you are only willing to do one test (and adjustment),
make this the one !
Tool: Basic Juice
Adjustments
Purpose: Pre-fermentation additions to
musts NOT containing skins.
Inputs Required: Specific gravity (SG) and total volume of the juice.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity of juice, sugar addition, water addition,
acid addition (tartaric or blend toggle), malolactic toggle.
Predictions: Rough (pre-additions) wine volume and percent alcohol.
Post-additions wine volume, percent alcohol, sweetness, total acidity, sugar deficit (if
any) and final SG of wine assuming fermentation to dryness.
Additional Notes:
Juices are produced by crushing and pressing
fruit or grapes. The pressing process separates the skins from the juice. Juices normally
contains considerable amounts of pulp but no seed, skins, stems etc. Juices packaged as
beverages should never be used for making wine. They normally contain additives that
inhibit fermentation and seldom have enough sugar. Juices for wine production need to be
almost 25 percent sugar by weight (which is too sweet for most people to drink) and are
more like syrups than a beverage. If the material you are fermenting contains skins it is
not a juice, it is a must. In that case, use one of the other tools suitable for fruit and
grape musts.
Tannin is found in grape skins and in the skins of a few
fruits like blueberries.,loganberries and blackberries. Since juices are separated from
the grape or fruit skins by the pressing process, wines made from juices typically do not
have significant amounts of tannin. If the wine being fermented is red, grape tannin
should be added, particularly if the wine will be high in alcohol and acidity for wine
stability and a balanced taste. Addition of tannin allows minimal amounts of sulphite to
be added in order to provide stability. If the wine being made is white or rose, then
tannin is not normally added. But in this case, to prevent spoilage and oxidation, the
amount of sulphite that is added should be the correct amount for a white wine.
The guidelines produced by the sulphite tool may be used. A normal nutrient addition
should be made when making juice wines. For red wines from low-tannin juices typically one
can add 1 teaspoon (5 [ml]) per every 5 liters of juice before fermentation. See the fruit
wine design tool for more accurate amounts to add to red wines made from different types
of fruit (or mixtures). Many fruits contain pectin (especially apples). Fresh pectic
enzyme may be added to prevent hazes. Use the amounts recommended in the fruit wine
design tool or follow the recommended amounts (see package etc.) for the enzyme you are
using.
Increasing the amount of sugar in the juice will increase the juice's specific gravity (SG)
and the alcoholic strength of the finished wine.
Increasing the amount of water in the juice will decrease the SG and alcoholic strength and
will also decrease the total acidity of the finished wine.
If total acidity has to
be reduced by the addition of water, then some added sugar may be needed to maintain a
reasonable amount of alcohol. Remember that at least 10 percent alcohol by volume is
required to protect the wine from spoilage organisms. And the higher the alcohol level the
more stable the wine will be. Remember also that wine should contain at least 6 grams per
liter (measured as tartaric acid equivalent) of total acidity to prevent a dull taste and
to protect against organic spoilage. White wines are more subject to spoilage and
typically have a few grams more per liter (7 or above). Another type of acidity
measurement is know as "pH". This is of even more importance in preventing
spoilage, but in the case of pH, low values are better. Another tool (the sulphite tool)
provided for calculating reasonable amounts of sulphite. It uses the pH (if available) to
determine optimal amounts of this vital addition (potassium metabisulfite) which assists
yeast to compete with bacteria and molds, prevents spoilage and reduces oxidation.
Increasing the amount of
tartaric acid (or acid blend) with increase the total acidity of the finished wine by
the amount shown. It is assumed that the juice contains mainly tartaric and malic acid
(the usual composition for grapes). For citrus or other types of fruit, it is better to
use the fruit wine composition tool in order to find the amount of acid, sugar and water
to add. This is because fruit other than grapes typically contain acids that are partly or
entirely consumed by yeast in the fermentation. In addition, certain other vital
components such as yeast nutrients and tannins are not present in most types of fruit.
Fruit wines are best made by recipes based on the experience of experts encapsulated in
the fruit wine design tool.
Each type of wine yeast has
a particular level of alcohol which it can tolerate before it stops fermenting. Some
special types of yeast can reach over 20 percent alcohol, particularly if the extra
amounts of sugar required to do this are fed slowly into the secondary fermentation and
other conditions such as nutrients, temperature and acidity are close to optimal. It is
much more usual for yeast to stop fermenting at about 15 percent alcohol.
If sugar remains when the
yeast stops fermenting, the wine will be sweet. Most producers of wine yeast make this
information available. Ask where you buy your yeast if this information is not available
on the package. Many books contain charts or tables with this type of data. See our book
reviews for examples. The tool for simple sugar and acidity corrections uses the input (or
default) fermentation limit to predict the finished wine's sweetness (in the usual units
of grams per liter). Remember that each 1 gram per liter means 0.1 percent (by weight) of
residual sugar. See also the tool for measuring percentage alcohol of a finished wine
which attempts a more sophisticated prediction of residual sugars. The advanced
corrections tools have an entry so that the user can specify the fermentation limit
(percentage alcohol) at which it is anticipated the yeast will stop fermenting. If you use
a proper wine yeast, the fermentation should normally proceed beyond the normal 12 or 13
percent alcohol most people prefer in a wine provided that the acidity is not too high and
nutrients are available. Yeast also may quit working at higher alcohol levels if the
temperature is too low. Yeast like "average" conditions and and you will reduce
the chances of stuck fermentations if you let them ferment near room temperature and with
moderate levels of acidity and make sure you start with enough nutrients to support a
robust yeast population. Never add less than the amount of yeast recommended on the
package and it does not hurt to add a bit more.
Tool: Advanced must
and juice adjustments.
Purpose: More complete set of
pre-fermentation additions to musts and juices with more complete specification of must
properties and corrections.
Inputs Required:
Inputs Optional: Measurement temperature, ?
Additional Notes:
Temperature Adjustments. Hydrometers are
calibrated to work at specific temperatures, typically roughly 15 C. Using uncorrected
measurements taken at other temperatures may lead to errors and the tool will apply these
corrections if the measurement temperature is entered. Brix measurements should always be
made at the instrument,s calibration temperature (20C) but we recommend the use of
temperature compensated instruments which are now available at reasonable prices. Once you
use this instrument a few times you will not understand how you ever functioned without it
!
Stems Stems (at
least some) are often left in the must during the primary fermentation. They increase the
must volume but not the final amount of wine produced. More important, stems introduce a
great deal of tannin and other bitter substances. Powerful red wines with very high
acidity and lots of alcohol are often fermented with a considerable percentage of stems
left in the must. Typically, the wine produced may need to be aged five or ten years
before it has "mellowed" enough to drink. If such a wine is not balanced by very
high extraction of color and flavours it may never mellow ! So this type of winemaking is
best left to those with the very best supply of noble grapes and the large amounts of
capital required to cellar wines for several years. Some grapes may produce very high
levels of tannin even with all stems removed. Certain types of grapes like tannat (used to
make Madiran) have been deliberately developed with this property. Since a lot of tannin
comes from the seeds, the amount of tannin in the wine may be reduced by removing the seed
after two or three days of primary fermentation. Generally, the longer the seeds are
exposed to the fermentation the more bitter the extraction products. This is why it is a
good idea to limit the use of seed in a second fermentation (see making false wine).
Unless you are able to measure tannin each day, only experience with specific grapes can
guide you in the refined use of stems and seeds. Top winemakers often have a superior
sense of taste and use it to detect subtle changes during fermentation. Human taste buds
are sensitive to bitterness. Try tasting your wine during fermentation. If you experiment
and keep accurate notes you too may become an exceptional winemaker. If you are a member
of a winemaking group, you may be able to learn several times faster by tasting several
fermenting musts and the resulting wines each year.
Fermentation Limits and Yeasts. Cultured wine yeast are able to survive much higher levels of
alcohol than can most "wild" yeast found on grapes. They are also able to better
resist the effects of sulphites making them much more compatible with modern winemaking
methods. This means that cultured wine yeasts are the best insurance against "stuck
fermentations". If the yeast you use cannot convert all the fermentable sugar in the
must (because the alcohol level reached inhibits them), the resulting wine will be sweet
rather than dry. In some wines, this is what is wanted. But in most cases this is a
serious flaw and can lead to organic spoilage. Some wine yeasts can ferment to over 20
percent alcohol ! Particularly if the extra amount of sugar needed to get this much
alcohol is added over several days during the secondary fermentation. If the yeast that
you are using has a maximum alcohol tolerance much different from the tool's default,
enter the correct value in the text area provided. Then the tool will indicate conditions
when you are likely to get a sweet wine by predicting a non-zero sweetness.
Port Style Wines Certain wines are only partly fermented. The fermentation is
stopped by adding a strong distilled spirit (brandy etc.). In this case, the fermentation
limit is low and is determined by the winemaker not the yeast. After the fermentation is
terminated, the winemaking differs from that for a typical wine and you should consult a
book for details (see our book reviews). Although this method typically leaves a lot of
sugar unfermented, the wine is stabilised by its high alcohol level. If you want to try
making this type of wine, you need to know how much spirit to add (and when) which is what
the tool does (among other things) You will also want to predict certain final properties
such as sweetness and the amount of wine that will be produced. The tool can make these
predictions because it permits the specification of a maximum fermentation limit and the
addition of spirits. It also predicts the must SG at the point that you will need to add
the spirits (that is, at the fermentation limit chosen). Note that other major issues such
as acidity also need to be handled differently. Since the tool permits the addition of
concentrates and water before fermentation, it is recommended that total acidity level be
tested again after all additions and before the primary fermentation. Since distillation
of spirits removes most of the important acids found in wines, the winemaker will probably
want ot start with a must of higher than normal acidity. Then when the spirits
"dilute" the wine the final acidity reached will be lower. High alcohol levels
mean that the wine's organic stability is less dependant on acidity so that in this case
acidity mainly an issue of taste. Generally, higher amounts of residual sugar, require
more acidity for a balanced taste. Yeasts experience stress under high acidity but since
the fermentation alcohol level will never be very high, many types of yeast will perform
well enough to make this type of wine. In order to make good port style wine, the
winemaker needs to have a sound understanding of the fermentation fundamentals and clear
goals (acidity, sweetness etc.) for the final product. Why not find out the sweetness,
alcohol level and acidity or your favourite style of port and see if you can make a
similar product.
Tartaric Acid and Acid
Blend A wine's acidity is adjusted by adding either tartaric acid or a blend of
tartaric, malic and citric acids. Since malic and citric acid may be entirely consumed
during fermentation (particularly in malolactic fermentation) the choice of which to add
can only be made in connection with decisions about malolactic fermentation. Citric acid
is cheap but since it is consumed during fermentation the reasons for adding it before
fermentation are subtle (at best). Fortunately, although some acids are consumed during
fermentation, other very important ones such as succinic acid are created. This acid is
responsible for giving wine its main characteristic "acidity taste". In
addition, acetic acid (vinegar) is produced. Vinegar is often referred to somewhat
politely as "volatile acidity". A tiny bit of volatile acidity may add to a
wine's complexity but amounts detectable by taste are a major flaw. This is avoided by
using modern sanitation and fermentation methods. Fortunately for winemakers, the total
acidity of a wine ofen does not decline very much even when certain acids are lost. This
is partly because the total volume of wine produced is quite a bit less than the volume we
start with (remember part of the sugar escapes as carbon dioxide, there is some
evaporation etc.) so that on a grams per liter basis the final acidity tends to take care
of itself. Looking at acidity from a spoilage point of view, it is the wine's pH that is
critical. Because wine is "buffered solution" of salts and acids (remember any
of that chemistry 101 you took?) , if we start with a suitable pH we usually also end up
with a suitable low pH. One thing that wine makers sometimes worry about is the
precipitation of added tartaric acid in the form of potassium bitartrate. This happens
because tartaric acid is less soluble in water containing alcohol (wines). This is the
reason for the old rule of thumb which specifies that not more than two grams per liter of
tartaric acid should be added to a must. The precipitation of bitartrate tends to happen
slowly and is encouraged by lower temperatures. This is another good reason to age wine
all winter in a cool place. The tool assumes an average amounts of bitartrate will be
precipitated in producing an estimate of the wine's final total acidity. Remember,
measurement of properties (like acidity) produce facts while calculated predictions are an
educated form of speculation ! If you really need to know, measure the acidity after
fermentation. Minor acidity corrections are sometimes conducted after fermentation. Any
citric acid added at this stage may stick around and even add complexity to the taste (in
small amounts).
Concentrate Strength The tool permits the addition of concentrate which is
generally superior to a sugar addition but is also more expensive. If you do not know the
strength of the concentrate the tool suggests a way to measure it. Alternately, you can
always let the tool use its default concentrate strength value and do a quick specific
gravity check before fermentation. Then, if necessary, do a fine adjustment treating the
new mixture as if it were just another must.
Spirits and Units Spirits strength (brandy, vodka etc.) is most reliably stated
in percent alcohol by volume. If the spirits you plan to use have a strength given only in
"proof" units then you will need to determine which type of proof is being used.
There are at least four types of proof in use (and probably several other variants). The
tool permits the strength to be input in two different types of proof. Use the percent
alcohol figure whenever possible. Spirits hydrometers can be purchased fairly cheaply and
these will allow you to measure proof directly and (hopefully) indicate which system they
use. There are several instruments available with more than one type of scale and this may
require somewhat careful use.
Tool: Alcohol
Measurement
Purpose: Practical and reliable method
to measure percent alcohol by volume in a finished wine.
Inputs Required: Two specific gravity measurements using a fine scale low
range hydrometer.
Inputs Optional: Total acidity, temperature, glycerine addition (addition
toggle and amount added text area)
Predictions: Percent alcohol by weight and estimates for total sweetness,
amount of fermentable sugars remaining in wine, total amount of glycerine in wine (based
on properties of a typical wine).
Tool Guide: Tool contains a detailed set of illustrated instructions for
the steps required to make a measurement of percentage alcohol.
Additional Notes:
Alcoholic strength may
be measured using several methods. This tool uses the most economical method we have been
able to find (that produces a reliable measurement). It requires only the purchase of a
low range hydrometer readable to one extra decimal of precision. These hydrometers are
fairly inexpensive and using them anyone can reliably verify the amount of alcohol in a
wine. If the user knows the total acidity of the wine and the temperature at which the SG
measurements were taken, the tool will also make an estimate of both the fermentable and
unfermentable residual sugars in the wine. Rough estimates may also be produced by
assuming room temperature and the tool's default value for total acidity. To proceed,
follow the four step method illustrated and described in the graphics and text areas of
the tool.
Tool: Fruit Wine Composer
Purpose: Compose fruit wines following
traditional guidlines.
Inputs Required: Weights of each type of fruit to add to composition.
Inputs Optional: Prefered units, substitution preferences regarding some
added components.
Predictions: Volume of must and wine when reported amounts of added
components such as water and acid are added to the fruit components.
Additional Notes:
About Recipes.
Before the age of science,
all wines were made following traditional methods, what we would now call recipes. In
recent times, science and technology have been introduced into winemaking. Now, we often
forget that each type of grape wine (think of the differences between Port, Champagne,
Sherry, Ice Wine and Madeira) conforms to a highly traditional "recipe". Only
relatively minor variations within each type of wine occur. In some countries, big
"variations" can send you to jail. One area of winemaking that has never moved
far from its recipe roots is what is sometimes called "country wine" but which
we will call "fruit wines". Just as you can not make a true "Port
style" wine without following the Port making methods, you can not make an Elderberry
style wine without following certain guidelines. This tool makes it possible to
"compose" fruit wines from one type of fruit but also to combine fruits in new
or traditional ways. In addition, it tells you what to do with the type and amount of
fruit you actually have on hand. Use only high quality fruit. If it's not good enough to
eat, its not good enough to be made into wine. Rotten fruit makes good compost (and wine
that may taste like compost).
Making Dry Fruit Wines
The composition tool should
be used in a two (or more) step procedure.
Step 1: Enter the
weight of the fruit(s) that you intend to use. The tool presents you with the
"traditional" amount of water acid and so on to add. Following this traditional
proportions will produce a dry (usually white or rose) wine if a cultured wine yeast with
good alcohol tolerance is used. A bit of pectic enzyme will help prevent hazes. Some
tannin will speed up clarification and if any remains in the wine it will probably enhance
the taste and increase stability.
Step 2: Adjustments.
This step is optional but highly recommended. Because the amounts of sugar and acid in
fruit are extremely variable, the SG and total acidity of the must should be measured and
adjusted if necessary to SG 1.080 to 1.100 and total acidity of 4.5 to 6.5 gram/Liter
equivalent tartaric. Use the higher values if you will be topping off carboys after
racking with water. The lower values are only valid if you are topping off with wine.
Taste first. If the wine is robust, small amounts of (sterile) water can be used to top
off. If not, rack to a smaller container.
Making Sweet Fruit Wines
To make a sweet wine, use one
of the sugar adjustment tools along with the must volume to find the amount of sugar to
add to get any sweetness desired. Sweet wines MUST have enough sulfite, alcohol, acidity
and tannin to prevent malolactic fermentation, restart of sugar fermentation and organic
instability. See the sulphite tool for some guidelines. See the alcohol measurement tool
which may help you detect residual sugar. Paper indicator strips are also available to
help detect residual sugar.
Your Preferred Style
Many fruit wines such as
those from pears and citrus fruits are traditionally light (even thin) compared to wines
made from grapes. They are therefore usually enjoyed cooled on a hot afternoon or evening
or with light summer food. The fruit wine composer makes it very easy to modify the
traditional fruit wine style. Simply add components that are consistent with your
preferred style !
Examples:
(1) More Color. Switch
to red grape concentrate where white concentrate or raisins are usually used. Or use one
of the sugar/acid adjustment tools after you measure the fruit must's SG and acidity to
add concentrate. Elderberries are a strong colouring agent and also add taste complexity.
Certain grapes having red pulp can also be added.
(2) More body is
obtained by adding some banana or raisins. Using raisins will also give a more vinous
(even Port style) flavour. The composer also lets you substitute concentrate for raisins
(and vice-versa).
(3) When significant
increases are made in body or alcohol level, remember to keep the wine in balance by also
boosting its acidity. Dark red wines should also have a bit more tannin as wine drinkers
automatically connect a wine's appearance to a taste expectation. The added stability and
ease of clarification is a bonus.
(4) Aging potential.
This means more body, alcohol, acidity and tannin. If this is your aim, make a red grape
wine instead of a fruit wine. In season, grapes may be the cheapest fruit available to
you. Out of season, consider using frozen grape must of refrigerated grape juice etc.
Making a robust red wine from grapes is actually easier than making a delicate white from
easily oxidized fruit. For small amounts of wine, little of the traditional equipment used
with grapes (crushers and presses) is required; just treat the grapes like any other fruit
! Since fruit and grape wines can easily be made for less than two dollars ($USA) per
bottle, wine making equipment is one of the best investments you can make.
Some Procedures:
Breaking down fruits for
better extraction (two methods). One way is to first prepare the fruit (by de-stoning and
chopping etc.) and then to add the water after it has been heated. Adding boiling water
would "cook" the fruit which is definately undesirable but boiling it first will
help remove the chlorine found in tap water. Adding hot (but not boiling) water will also
partly sterilize the fruit. This gives the cultured wine yeast that you will add (after
cooling to room temperature) a desirable advantage. It also reduces the need for added
(pre fermentation) sulfite provided that excess contact with air is avoided. Any sugar to
be added should be dissolved while the water-fruit mixture is hot. Only after cooling to
room temperature are the other components (yeast, tannin, acid etc.) added.
Another way is to break down
the fruits' cellular structure by freezing and then thawing to room temperature. This
greatly increases the speed of extraction during fermentation. Fruits with stones are
probably easier to de-stone before freezing. Both methods increase the accuracy of the
sugar (SG) and total acidity measurements and adjustments that should be made after the
all the components are combined and thoroughly mixed.
Fermentation: Treat
fruit wines the same way you would treat a light rose or white wine. Strain the fluid from
the solids after about three days. Strong components like dried Elderberries can be placed
in a small nylon bag and removed when your taste buds tells you to do so. Use the sulphite
tool to find
the MINIMUM amounts of
potassium metabisulphite to add. Serious injury can result from fermentations restarting
in sweet wines as bottles can and do
explode. So study
stabilization methods and get advice from someone (local wine making store) who has tried
what you are contemplating. Some books discuss sweetening wines after they are stabilized
by sterile filtering etc. This tool is just a doorway to creative winemaking. Enjoy.
Aging. Although fruit
wines are fermented much like white wines made from grapes, they often need a bit more
aging typically six to twelve months. As with any wine, only tasting can reveal when a
wine is ready to drink and when it is starting to show its age.
Some Specific Fruits
Bananas. Bananas add body to
fruit wines. Some recipes recommend that they be peeled but others do not. Peeled or
unpeeled they should always be chopped. The most "delicate" way to use them is
to peel and chop and then to simmer in a small amount of water for a half an hour. Then
strain out the solids and add only the broth to the must.
Elderberries
These are typically added as
relatively minor components to fruit wines in order to add colour (elderberries can be
used as a dye) and to produce a more complex tasting wine. They are often removed from the
wine early when small amounts are added by keeping them in a cloth bag submerged in the
must until they have added enough colour or taste.
Rhubarb. Rhubarb is
easy to grow in large amounts and is available very early in the year which is the only
time that it should be used for wine. At times, rhubarb may be difficult to ferment. This
means that if a high alcohol wine is attempted, it is more likely that a sweet wine will
result. Always add yeast nutrient and keep the must warm (above room temperature) while
fermenting. Use a tough, high alcohol tolerance, yeast like K1V-1116 (strain 1016-02) or
EC-1118 (strain 1018-02). To promote extraction, chop and cover with the required added
sugar for 24 hours. Osmotic pressure extracts a lot of juice during this time.
Raisins. Raisins add
body, sugar and a "Port style" vinous character. They should be chopped before
use. A good substitute for raisins is grape concentrate. Some recipes indicate that 10
fluid ounces (0.28 L) of concentrate will have the same effect as one half to one pound
(0.23 to 0.45 kg) of raisins. Red grape concentrate will add colour and stability to the
wine. Grape concentrates also add vinous quality (but not Port style character). The fruit
composer tool permits the user to handle raisin and concentrate additions in three ways.
The "Both" option does not modify
the "traditional"
additions of either raisins or grape concentrate. Two other options specify either all
raisin additions be converted to concentrate or vice versa. The tool adjusts then must and
wine volumes to reflect any substitutions made. When making substitutions be sure to
measure SG and total acidity and adjust when required using one of the must adjustment
tools if you wish to more accurately control the final alcohol and acidity levels.
Stone Fruit. Some
fruit stones are either toxic or contain unpleasant bitter substances. This means that all
pits and stones from this class of fruit should be removed before chopping or crushing.
Apples and Pears.
These are very similar fruits from a wine making point of view and make a good wine when
mixed together. Cider and perry may be made by pulping and pressing the fruit in which
case we are making a "juice wine". Use the must correction tool designed for
juices rather than the "traditional recipe approach" used in the fruit composer
tool to make this type of wine. This type of fruit (and some others) browns (oxidizes)
rapidly when exposed to air. This can be mostly prevented by immediately putting the fruit
in the water as it is chopped. Adding the required acid to the water before starting
chopping works even better.
Fermentation Cap and
Punchdown. Fruit wine musts contains solids such as skins and seeds. These float to
the top forming a "cap" during fermentation. The cap needs to be kept wet by
"punching down" several times a day just as in making grape wines. This will
speed extraction of sugar and colour and reduce vinegar formation. If you want more cap or
want to add more vinous character, crush some Thompson (seedless) grapes and add then to
the must. The fruit composer lets you do this properly by using the "wine or table
grape" category of fruit. Thompson Seedless table grapes have a very neutral
character. Be careful with other types of grapes such as hybrids and Concord as some of
these may add taste components that you do not like. Avoid the "foxy" flavour
component that come with many native (or hybrid) grapes unless you are one of those rare
individuals that likes this taste.
Rice and Sake. Real sake is made from rice which produces
a unique form of wine which is highly developed in Japan. A more traditional "wine
taste" and complexity is achieved by adding either raisins or grape concentrate. You
may want to experiment with other components using the fruit wine composer.
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